Geoff and Valerie Welch, experienced paddlers now in their seventies, decided to join us on one of our 2024 River Spey canoe trips.
Valerie made a video diary of the trip. Below are her daily videos as well as her commentary as text entries.
Spey Day 1
Loch Insh
Loch Insh is as flat as a millpond this morning—quite a contrast from our last paddle here when we battled the wind across the loch. After a hearty breakfast, we outfit the boats with airbags and head out for our first water session. The focus this morning is on edging the boat. Our group includes two couples, plus Ted, who’s paddling solo, and Jodi, Mike, Jiefei, and Johnny, who are pairing up to learn tandem paddling.
In the afternoon, the wind picks up a bit as we paddle a few hundred meters to where the River Spey exits Loch Insh. A short way downstream, we come to a small rapid, perfect for practicing skills like eddying in, eddying out, and ferrying across. Autumn’s colours are starting to show, making this bay a wonderful spot for paddling.
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Spey Day 2
From Practice to the River
After yesterday’s sessions, we’re finally heading down the river. Ray took the trailer to Spey Bay this morning, though we got a late start due to a delayed taxi on his return trip.
Now, we’re at the start of the Spey, ready to embark on a three-day journey down to the sea. There’s talk of tree hazards, so we may need to use painters to walk the boats along certain sections. Once everything is secured, we cross the loch to rejoin the Spey. This stretch above Aviemore is pretty, narrow, and winding. While it’s not challenging for experienced paddlers, it might be a challenge for newcomers.
Things take a turn when Johnny and Jiefei capsize after hitting a log protruding into the river. Jiefei climbs onto the log while Johnny clings to it. We direct them both to the bank. With some teamwork and a bit of maneuvering, Ray and Paul manage to free their boat from under the log.
After lunch, we paddle downstream without further mishaps. However, with the late start and capsize, it’s nearly dusk when we reach our campsite. Setting up tents in the dark is the final challenge for the day, but we’re rewarded with Thai green curry before turning in for a well-deserved rest.
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Spey Day 3
Misty Morning and Reflections
After yesterday’s long day, I slept well. It was a cold night, and morning mist is rising from the warmer river. I can finally explore our wooded campsite in daylight.
After breakfast, as the mist lifts, a magnificent day is revealed. Today is mostly flat water paddling until Grantown-on-Spey. Beyond that, the river picks up speed, offering some light rapids. Today is a day of reflection, both in the river and in the quiet moments as we float along.
We pass old bridge remains and thread the needle on our way to Grantown-on-Spey. After Grantown, the river speeds up slightly, but there are no significant rapids. As we push on, the light on the hills is stunning. This evening, we pitch our tents in daylight, enjoy a vegetable stew with pasta, and head to bed.
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Spey Day 4
Frosty Morning and Rapids
Jack Frost visited last night, leaving a delicate layer of ice on plants, helmets, and gear. The mist rising from the river is beautiful, creating a serene start to our day.
Breakfast is a treat – eggy bread with bacon or vegan bacon, canned fruit, and maple syrup. I’m excited for today; we’ll tackle “the washing machine” and Knockando on our way down to Rothes.
Under a bright blue sky, we set off, the river speeding up as we approach the washing machine. Geoff and I debate whether we’ve passed it, as he just enjoyed the waves without realising. Ted, our solo paddler, unfortunately capsizes after hitting a wave, but his boat stayed upright and dry.
We reach Knockando, though the lower water levels make it less exciting than when we paddled it earlier. We stop for lunch below the rapid, then continue with gentle rapids along the way. After a quick break in Aberlour, we paddle to our last campsite. A good day indeed.
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Spey Day 5
The Bay and Final Strokes
I love this day; it’s unique. Unlike most rivers that slow as they approach the sea, the Spey maintains a fast current and small rapids all the way to the end.
The first few kilometres today are easy paddling, but we stay vigilant. Ian and Laura get caught in a stopper and end up in the water. We take a short break on a shingly beach while they change into dry clothes. Passing under the bridge at Fochabers, the river’s character changes as it flows through an alluvial plain, speeding its way to the sea.
We encounter fallen trees and debris in a few places, requiring us to line the boats through challenging spots. Around 2 o’clock, we take our final paddle strokes and land at Spey Bay.
It’s been a fantastic five days, and now it’s time to dream about our next adventure.
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Thanks again to Geoff and Valerie for joining us on this trip, and for Valerie’s video diary. I hope you enjoyed following along. Let us have your comments below.
If you’d like to undertake a River Spey trip with Frontier Bushcraft, then check out our River Spey canoe trip page.
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