Reading White Water Rapids on the River Spey

Man paddling down section of Knockando rapids, River Spey, in open canoe
Avoiding these rocks in the left hand channel of Stoney Island on the River Spey is essential.

In this article, and embedded video, we’re going to look at some of the white water rapids on the River Spey. In the video I break down the decision-making process and highlight key features you can spot from the canoe, helping you make better-informed choices on the water. This will be useful to you not just on the River Spey, but also on any moving water.

Every October I work with Frontier Bushcraft to guide trips on the River Spey. The Spey always makes for a great trip. Paul and I always look forward to running these trips, even if we have just been in Canada on one of Frontier Bushcraft’s wilderness canoe expeditions there, which are often run in September.

Navigating Stoney Island and Knockando

At the top of the Knockando section of the Spey, you’ll encounter Stoney Island. Usually, I direct groups to the right side of this island due to challenging obstacles on the left. However, when water levels drop, the right-hand route becomes very shallow, sometimes making the left-hand route necessary.

Approaching from the left, you’ll immediately notice white water ahead. The line of white clearly indicates rocks or other submerged obstructions. Watch for standing waves or water rising up – a sure sign of hidden obstacles.

Fortunately, as you’ll see in the video clip below, there are no hazards like overhanging trees on the left this time, making it the safest line.

But you should always remember that rivers change, and even if you have run the rapid the week before, it could be different the next week.

For the water levels on this occasion, you’ll see from the video, the rocks become clearly visible. I’ve seen canoes broached here, requiring rescue efforts. Maintaining a left line helps you avoid these hazards completely. It’s a classic example of why reading the river and choosing your route early matters greatly.

The Shallow Stoney Island Route and Recent Changes

Normally, the right side of Stoney Island is navigable, albeit shallow and rocky. The gravel banks extend significantly toward the right bank, causing boats to scrape frequently. You’ll often hear your canoe hitting gravel here.

However, rivers change dramatically after major floods. In October 2023, an extreme flood reshaped the gravel banks entirely, cutting a new, deeper channel through previously shallow areas. Now the route flows easily, highlighting how dynamic river environments can be.

Navigating Hazards at the River Feshie Junction

Further upstream, near Loch Insh, the River Feshie joins the Spey, sometimes creating tricky conditions. Here the moving water sections are smaller and narrower than the more well-known white water rapids on the River Spey, such as the so-called “Washing Machine” (see below for more info on the latter).

Here just after the River Feshie joins the Spey, the flow splits around an island with the main channel being on the left. The flow hugs the left bank, where a persistent hazard is a partially submerged tree protruding into the flow.

A useful technique here is executing an eddy turn to steer clear of this hazard, particularly at low water. During higher flows, inexperienced groups are advised to line or walk boats safely along the shallower right-hand side using the painter, avoiding risks altogether.

Tackling the “Washing Machine”

Finally, let’s discuss the famous “washing machine” rapid downstream. This rapid is unmistakable on both Ordnance Survey maps and aerial views, showing water funnelling sharply between gravel banks into a classic “downstream V”.

In moderate water, I recommend the “nursery rhyme” approach: “Hey diddle diddle, straight down the middle.”

In big bouncy rapids like this maintain loose hips, allowing the boat to move naturally beneath you. Avoid powering aggressively into waves, keeping your bow dry and the ride stable.

In higher flows, consider diagonal lines into slower eddies at the bottom for a controlled and enjoyable descent.

White Water Rapids on the River Spey – Important Lessons

Remember, rivers constantly change. Understanding what to look for and making proactive decisions enhances safety and enjoyment on the water.

For more tips on avoiding obstacles in white water sections of river, please take a look at my article (again with embedded video) How To Spot Rocks When Canoeing

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Ray Goodwin MBE is the UK’s best known and (many would go so far as to say) foremost canoe coach. For more than 35 years Ray has been introducing people to, and developing people’s skills in, the great outdoors. Ray is also one of Frontier Bushcraft's oldest collaborators. Ray has brought his experience and expertise to all of Frontier Bushcraft’s canoeing activities, from our Expedition Canoeing Skills Course and River Spey trip in the U.K., to our wilderness canoe expeditions such as the Missinaibi River, Bloodvein River, and Porcupine River in Canada.

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